By Gabrielle Hamilton
- Total Time
- 1 hour (active)
- Rating
- 4(68)
- Notes
- Read community notes
There are three pretty joyful projects here that reward not only the pleasure-driven eater but the scientifically curious mind as well. Making soy milk, making soft tofu, and making a savory caramel sauce (not sweet like the one you're probably accustomed to, but vinegary and spicy) are all as easy as those beginner science projects we remember from grade school (growing marigolds or sprouting avocado pits) and equally as wondrous. As always, ingredients matter. The better the soy, the richer the milk, the richer the milk, the more compelling the tofu. The better the butter, the more expert the finished dish. Each component is quite easy but requires your full attention. Over-soaking the beans can give the curd a pitted texture; over-stirring the coagulant can break up the quickly setting curd and give you cottage cheese texture. And adding the vinegar to the burning sugar can be little hazardous – that step maybe closer resembles tenth grade chemistry than 1st grade marigold planting, I admit!
Featured in: How to Have Your Health Food and Love It, Too
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Ingredients
Yield:6 servings
- 1pound dried yellow soybeans, any debris removed
- 9¼cups filtered water
- 2teaspoons tofu coagulant (Powdered Nigari or Glucono Delta-Lactone)
- ½cup sugar
- 2tablespoons water
- ½teaspoon celery seed
- ½teaspoon crushed chile flakes
- ½cup apple-cider vinegar
- 12tablespoons salted French butter
- 12tablespoons water
- 3cups frozen fresh shelled soybeans
- Kosher salt to taste
- Tofu
- Gastrique
- Gray sea salt
For the Tofu
For the Gastrique (a Vinegar-sugar Reduction)
For Serving
Ingredient Substitution Guide
Preparation
Step
1
Soak the dried yellow soybeans in tap water overnight at room temperature, making sure they are covered by 2 inches of water.
Step
2
Strain water from soybeans.
Step
3
Pour 3 cups of filtered water into a large heavy-duty blender, then add in the strained beans. Grind the mixture until thick and smooth as a milkshake, stirring if necessary to encourage the beans to move at first. (You may need to work in two batches, depending on the size of your blender.)
Step
4
In a large, clean stainless-steel 8-quart pot, bring 6 cups of filtered water to a boil over high heat.
Step
5
Pour soybean purée into the boiling water. Stirring gently and constantly with a rubber spatula, cook until a rich, slightly thick, silky-looking off-white soy milk develops (about 8 minutes), adjusting the temperature as necessary so that the milk does not boil over. Be sure to drag the spatula across the sides and bottom of the pan as you stir to prevent scorching.
Step
6
Line a large fine-mesh strainer with 4 layers of cheesecloth, and place the strainer over a large bowl. Strain the milk through the cloth and strainer, carefully adding it a bit at a time with a ladle if you’re not comfortable pouring the hot liquid. As the cheesecloth fills with tofu solids, you may have to empty it — just fold the cheesecloth over the solids, squeeze the cheesecloth until you have extracted all the milk and replace the cheesecloth. (Discard soybean solids.)
Step
7
In a medium clean stainless pot, heat 6 cups of the soy milk to 165 degrees, stirring occasionally.
Step
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Meanwhile, dissolve 2 teaspoons of coagulant in the remaining ¼ cup of filtered water. Pour the dissolved coagulant into a clean casserole dish, ensuring first that it is large enough to fit all 6 cups of soy milk.
Step
9
Pour the hot soy milk over the coagulant, and stir quickly and briefly — only about 3 sturdy and confident Figure 8 strokes with a rubber spatula. Let it set up at room temperature undisturbed, 15 to 20 minutes, while you prepare the gastrique and fresh soybeans.
Step
10
Combine the sugar and water in a small stainless saucepot, and cook over high heat until it is a deep-amber caramel. Do not stir it.
Step
11
While the caramel is cooking, add the celery seed and crushed chile flakes to the vinegar, and let steep.
Step
12
When the caramel is at desired point of caramelization, carefully add the seasoned vinegar all at once. It will stop the sugar from cooking. Take care not to get burned from the hissing steam. Let the mixture bubble for a minute or 2, until any bits of hard caramel have melted.
Step
13
In a medium saucepot, combine butter, water and soybeans over medium-high heat, and simmer until water almost evaporates and beans are cooked through and glossy, about 5 minutes. Season to taste with kosher salt.
Step
14
Evenly divide the beans and their buttery liquid among 6 shallow bowls.
Step
15
In one motion, dip into the soft tofu with a large spoon, and slide tofu into the center of each bowl.
Step
16
Drizzle a spoonful of gastrique onto the beans, leaving the tofu pristine. Finish with a few flakes of gray salt on the beans. Serve at once.
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out of 5
68
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Cooking Notes
Nathan Brasfield
GMO's are fine but there is *plenty* of rationale in buying and supporting the production of organic produce.
PCClaudia
Where can we get the tofu coagulant?
Susan
GMOs are safe, don't buy into the hype on organic food. I'd be embarrassed to buy organic produce.
Doris Glaspy
? Can you find soybeans that are not GMO'S F anywhere? My study finds that over 94% of soybeans are GMO's. This means tofu made with such very questionable. Thanks.
Peter Best
Why oh why do recipes like this use such clumsy, crazy measures? Nine and a quarter cups? Twelve tablespoons? If people like measuring out such amounts by all means suggest them, but give alternatives for volume and weight. How accurate will 12 tablespoons of butter be?
Trainerbill
Gabrielle-
Discard soybean solids??? Really????
Also known as okara, these solids are widely used in Japanese cooking. Google it, you'll find a plethora of recipes.
Alex
Down in chinatown at one of the markets there, or on Amazon!
Rochelle
Is it possible to use a butter subsitute? Removing that ingredient makes it a vegan dish but perhaps it is necessary?
Doro Salm
Do not discard the soy bean solids, make a "rice" with a little fresh grated ginger root and serve this with any kind meat for a delicious dinner
Michael
The tofu in the main article looks even worse, like Swiss cheese! Gabrielle used butter to compensate for the chalkiness in her silken tofu. Properly made silken tofu should not be chalky! How to have your health food and love it too? By making tofu right! Also disappointing to see tofu touted as a hippie food, with no acknowledgement of its cultural history in Asian cuisine.
Michael
The tofu in the main article looks even worse, like Swiss cheese! Gabrielle used butter to compensate for the chalkiness in her silken tofu. Properly made silken tofu should not be chalky! How to have your health food and love it too? By making tofu right! Also disappointing to see tofu touted as a hippie food, with no acknowledgement of its cultural history in Asian cuisine.
Michael
For an attempt to make silken tofu, hers really turned out awful--pitted and cottage cheese-like. Tofu is not supposed to be a bland, chalky hippie "protein substitute." Think about who invented tofu and how those people ate it. Surely not like this. Look to dishes like mapo tofu and dou hua for inspiration for silken tofu and the various "mock meats" in Buddhist cuisine as examples of dense tofu that actually taste good and are packed with flavor. Not Tofurkey!
Trainerbill
Gabrielle-
Discard soybean solids??? Really????
Also known as okara, these solids are widely used in Japanese cooking. Google it, you'll find a plethora of recipes.
Doro Salm
Do not discard the soy bean solids, make a "rice" with a little fresh grated ginger root and serve this with any kind meat for a delicious dinner
Peter Best
Why oh why do recipes like this use such clumsy, crazy measures? Nine and a quarter cups? Twelve tablespoons? If people like measuring out such amounts by all means suggest them, but give alternatives for volume and weight. How accurate will 12 tablespoons of butter be?
Doro Salm
1 and 1/2 stick butter
Alli
12 tablespoons = 1.5 sticks of butter. Tablespoon measures are marked right on the sticks. Easy peasy :-)
Fancyxanthe
It’s a stick and a half of butter.
Régine B.
The French word "gastrique" means "related to the stomach" or "from the stomach". What is the meaning intended here?
Genevieve
It's a pretty common culinary term, as a quick Google search will indicate.
MsTish
MOMs market in Rockville has bulk soybeans, $1.99/lb. Everything in that store is organic. They no longer have powdered Nigari, but do have the liquid. $9.99. The label says to contact them for recipes, but on my phone in the store, on Sunday, I could not get and answer about substitution of liquid for dry. I contacted them and hope to hear from them during the week. I am saving my receipt.
MsTish
PS... on my home computer I was able to get their tofu recipe.
They use 1 + ⅓ cups of organic soybeans and 4 tsps liquid nigari.
Doing the math for this recipe, that would be 2 cups soybeans and 6 tsp nigari (2 tablespoons). They dissolve in 1 cup of water, add half into the soy milk, stir, add the rest.
tofuuuuu
Can gypsum be substituted for nigari? What's the ratio for substitution?
Rochelle
Is it possible to use a butter subsitute? Removing that ingredient makes it a vegan dish but perhaps it is necessary?
Su
It makes for a radically different dish, but I prefer fresh tofu with just a little sesame oil on top instead. Or you might try something like cashew cream?
Maiam
Ttoo much protein. Also it does not seduce me ..
Susan
Butter is for mouth feel. I'm a plant based vegan and if I made this recipe, I'd skip that part. The gastrique is going to be plenty flavorful, you don't need the saturated unhealthy fat of the butter.
Doris Glaspy
? Can you find soybeans that are not GMO'S F anywhere? My study finds that over 94% of soybeans are GMO's. This means tofu made with such very questionable. Thanks.
Su
Try the bulk section of a natural foods store. They'll often source GMO-free beans, and have them labelled as such.
Jade
I think you could really use any bean you wanted to...like a Lima bean or fava bean. As for tofu and the GMO worry, I find looking at the labels carefully, there are many that are in-GMO. A bit more expensive if course but not too much so.
Susan
GMOs are safe, don't buy into the hype on organic food. I'd be embarrassed to buy organic produce.
PCClaudia
Where can we get the tofu coagulant?
Alex
Down in chinatown at one of the markets there, or on Amazon!
JEvans
You can use powdered gypsum which can be found in home Brewing or winemaking store
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